Ledaig 17 Years (2006/2024) - Gordon & MacPhail

Nose

The personality of this Ledaig is revealed from the very first nosing. A real sherry bomb explodes in the glass, but behind it lurks something unexpected: a clear sulphur note that immediately reminds you of old match heads. This is joined by overripe plums that are past their prime, followed by flavours reminiscent of old leather and a damp compost heap. That sounds off-putting at first, and to be honest, it is. This whisky smells "dirty" and "mouldy" - terms that do not normally have positive connotations. But this is precisely where the fascination lies: between all these earthy, almost disgusting notes, there are flashes of fresh strawberries and a very subtle smoke nestles against the composition like a campfire character.

Palate

The polarising profile continues on the palate. Sour cherries dominate the attack, accompanied by a mineral, earthy base note reminiscent of wet earth after a downpour. The sulphur is also present here, albeit more discreetly than on the nose. An interesting sweet and sour dynamic develops, supported by citrus notes reminiscent of pink grapefruit. The driftwood note that spreads across the mid-palate is particularly fascinating. It lends the whisky a maritime depth that perfectly matches its origin from the Isle of Mull.

Finish

The finish surprises with its length and unexpected sweetness. This is where 17 years of ageing shows its best side: mocha flavours merge with strong oak notes, while the smoke only resonates subtly in the background. Age has taken the edge off what was probably originally a smokier character and moulded it into a complex, warm finish.